By Jesse Scott
Ever the master showman, Pharrell Williams has done it again. Highlighting the first day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week with the season’s most visually spectacular show, he went “California Dreaming” by turning the grounds of the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris into a beach. A towering artificial wave rained down on the runway as models swaggered through the sand carrying surfboards and even an entirely Louis Vuitton-monogrammed bicycle (Look 75). This was a collection for the cool kids—and a reminder that the maison’s cultural currency is as strong as ever.
Star-Studded Guest List Builds Anticipation for Show
To no one’s surprise, a who’s who of Men’s Fashion Week’s cool kids was in attendance. Missy Elliott, Wizkid, Lil Baby, and Tosin Cole dazzled in the front row as the waves rose. The opening looks did not disappoint. Look 5 was an early hit, pairing a structured baseball cap with a red T-shirt and black blazer in an ensemble that epitomized casual chic. Look 9 injected a slightly more glamorous touch with a glimmering snakeskin-patterned bomber worn over a navy hoodie. A royal-blue leather blazer proved one of the season’s most coveted pieces when paired with a monogrammed burgundy baseball cap in Look 12.
Encyclopedic Collection Showcases Cohesive Vision
Despite the high drama of the setting and the collection’s impressive 78 looks, Pharrell also paid close attention to detail and told a truly cohesive story. Nowhere was this more evident than in the accessories. Of course, the 130-year-old monogram designed by Georges Vuitton was front and center. Equally exciting were this season’s trunks, one of which dazzled with a vivid surf-inspired pattern, and a delightfully puffy Damier bag that reminded me of a buoy (Looks 1 and 22). Baseball caps were emblematic from start to finish, with Pharrell displaying commendable range in how he employed them. As a lifelong hockey player who always spiced up my mandatory game-day uniform by adding caps to suit-and-tie ensembles, I was thrilled to see Pharrell seamlessly add the season’s must-have accessory to everything from blazer, tie, and jean-short combinations to covetable sweaters to, yes, a full pinstripe costume (Looks 28, 42, and 59). Few designers mix casual and formal as effectively as he does—and still fewer would be capable of doing it in a surfer’s paradise.
While the maison launched its collection at the very beginning of Paris Fashion Week, there is little doubt that “Vuitton Beach” (not to be confused with the pop-up stores in destinations such as Saint-Tropez and Capri) will stand as the season’s indelible memory for many of those who attended. I’m tempted to organize a trip to Biarritz; I’ll go surfing in France with Pharrell any day!
