By Romi More
BOSS, the German brand known for its signature tailoring, has presented its new collection The Boss Paradox this week at Fonderia Macchi as part of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026. Even though the brand does not have a reputation for disruption, this time creative director Marco Falcioni decided not to play safe. This collection, according to him, represents the most risk-taking direction the brand has explored so far.
Exploring New Creative Territories
Traditionally associated with sleekness and sharpness, this season BOSS decided to explore the less known side of its brand identity by reconnecting with art and design. The inspiration for the collection came from multiple sources, but mainly from the works of Dieter Rams, the German industrial designer whose functionalist ethos shaped modern design, and from the avant-garde ballet dancer Pina Bausch, whose practice combined emotion with technicality. The paradox of the collection lies precisely here: the meeting of function and emotion, rationality, and vulnerability, all expressed through BOSS’s sartorial language.
The Beauty of Contradiction
The looks themselves unfolded as a study in oxymoron. Sharp tailoring was interconnected with the flowing spirit of contemporary dance throughout the whole collection. A new technique of bonding ultra-light suede with ultra-light Nappa allowed BOSS to achieve lightness while retaining visual sharpness, echoing the brand's tailoring heritage in an unexpectedly airy form (Look 11). For womenswear, tailored trousers were paired with asymmetric tunics and draped tops, which introduced movement and a touch of bohemian ease (Look 53, Look 18). At the same time, pencil skirts and trousers styled with unbuttoned shirts radiated an undone, sensual edge (Look 61). Male looks carried the same paradox of being polished yet nonchalant, with loosened or undone ties, slouchy trousers, and relaxed coats (Look 30, Look 48, Look 54).
Layering played a crucial role in sustaining the tension. Brown on brown, beige on beige, and duplicated “shirt-on-shirt” and “blazer-on-blazer” styling contributed to that laconic yet expressive mood. Texture also became central to the narrative. Leather appeared in expected forms (trousers, jackets, oversized bags) but also in surprising twists, such as a dress crafted from eel skin and sharply cut leather ties (Look 52, Look 44). Among the most striking experiments was the pairing of silicone with silk (Look 63), which created a visually pleasing harmony of opposites. Ultimately, Marco Falcioni managed to masterfully combine orderly geometric aspects with flowing chaos in the collection, allowing these worlds to coexist in the form of wearable yet captivating fashion designs.
The Audience
More than 600 guests were invited to the show, including brand’s ambassadors David Beckham, Aaron Pierre, Ishaan Khatter, and Khaby Lame, along with other celebrity visitors such as Korean singer S.Coups, actors Meghann Fahy, Corey Mylchreest, Rudy Pankow, self-identified fashion geek Hanan Besovic, performance and makeup artist Alixis Stone and other prominent figures.
BOSS SS26: Looks 11, 18, 30, 44, 48, 53, 54, 61, 63 (Images courtesy of BOSS)
