By Jesse Scott
Amidst the glamour and chaos of Milan Fashion Week, Brunello Cucinelli offered a bucolic escape through its A/W 25/26 collection. Playfully titled “Country Couture,” this season’s offering holds true to the timeless codes of feminine elegance and fine craftsmanship that have forever defined the Maison. Yet, it also introduced an understated charm informed more by fields and streams than streets and red carpets, inviting guests into a soothing world where grace is effortless, time passes slowly, and everything is done with intention. Natural fibers defined the season; knitwear and tweeds grounded the collection while lace and silk provided harmonious contrasts. Meanwhile, a color palette of refined greys, creams, and tans are complemented by emblematic British patterns such as tartans, houndstooth, and Prince of Wales, evoking the countryside and emphasizing a delightful duality of comfort and luxury. Guests were introduced to the concept of “Tones through textures,” which Cuccinelli described as “the color palette being an integral part of the weave… not following the season but renewed through memory.”
Brunello Cucinelli Autumn/Winter 2026 'Country Couture' presented at Casa Cucinelli in Milan (Images courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)
Formalwear with a Countryside Touch
Complementary contrasts were a recurring thread throughout the collection, as formalwear details danced upon sumptuous fabrics in ensembles perfect for fireside nightcaps in cozy hunting lodges. Ties were paired with a wool-collared knit sweater, a billowing shearling coat, a pleated knit skirt, covetous furry vests, and even sharp black leather. Wool layers lent an irresistible winter coziness to precisely tailored looks. And a long double-breasted gray vest effortlessly incorporated a pop of feminine sparkle into a traditionally masculine silhouette.
The “auteur knit” was a major focus this season. Recent years have seen a variety of brands re-imagine the ways knitwear is constructed while confidently subverting our expectations for the settings in which it is found. However, no one has done this greater savoir faire than Cucinelli, which proposes knits that effortlessly move from day to evening without compromising the precise tailoring and elegant draping emblematic of the Maison. From maxis to minis, gracefully slumped shoulders to clean technical cuts, Cucinelli knits takes many forms but are always united by artisanal craftsmanship, impeccable attention to detail, and a spirit of relaxed refinement endemic to an old-world aristocracy.
The collection was presented in Milano’s Casa Cucinelli, where an exclusive guest list, including Eileen Gu, mingled amongst the models, glasses of champagne in hand. The affair, despite drawing a who’s who of Milan Fashion Week, felt like an intimate dinner party at an old friend’s luxurious but never overstated estate… where shared moments are prioritized over material pleasures, new friendships and romances are sparked, and passionate conversations extend late into the night over bottles of Barolo. “Quiet luxury” may have become a buzzword in recent years, but on this warm February night in Milano, Brunello Cucinelli reminded us of the timeless values that have transcended time and geography to remain, steadfast, at the heart of the concept.
Eileen Gu attends the Brunello Cicinelli presentation at Casa Cucinelli in Milan (Image courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)