By Jesse Scott
“Today, true luxury is not about following a dress code. It is having the culture, sensitivity, and freedom to rewrite it.” That is the defining sentence of Brunello Cucinelli’s Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, a tribute to free spirits who are educated about all of the rules but have the dexterity of thought to break them artfully. It’s a wardrobe for global citizens, those for whose home might be a different country every year and who have absorbed elements of cultural sensibility from the places they have left behind. Jackets paired with casual linen pants recall fond memories on safari. “Blazer-sweater-cardigans” exemplify a distinctly modern trend suited to the versatile needs of the post-Covid man who moves fluidly between sport, work, and leisure. A supple butter neutral suit puts a daring yet elegant twist on the iconic male uniform while a double-breasted suit complete with silver buttons modernizes a classic look.
Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2027: Looks 35, 16. Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
A common thread throughout all looks was an effortless oscillation between casual and formal, with blazers being dressed down by flowing summer pants, cargo trousers paired with ties, and lived-in finishes proving prevalent among the luxurious pieces. The modern Brunello man understands that comfort itself is a luxury; he dresses for how he feels and what he aesthetically appreciates, not to impress anyone. And his color palette echoes this; bold shades are eschewed for neutral sand, leather, and tobacco while sensual shades such as raspberry, peach blossom, and apricot reflect his appreciation for the dolce vita. Many ensembles exquisitely encapsulate the spirit of yachting and the Mediterranean, with sweaters worn around the waist instead of draped over the shoulders establishing an emblematic Cucinelli touch that I expect to be oft-imitated but never duplicated in upcoming seasons.
Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2027: Looks 26, 20, 36, 45. Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Presented at Casa Cucinelli on Viale Montello, the collection was unveiled on the opening night of Milan Fashion Week before a who’s who of the industry’s luminaries. As then sun slowly set over Milan and laughter filled the air, one truly felt the ease of the collection’s protagonists. It’s a feeling that, during this hectic season, is both rare and priceless.