By: June Roberson
Illuminated by a soft golden hue and enhanced by a relaxed rendition of Elton John’s “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road” Coach’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection explored the magic of early mornings and endless opportunity in the city that never sleeps. On the cusp of one of the most anticipated seasons in recent fashion history, the house is one of few remaining steadfast during what seems like record breaking creative turnover. Unmasked at Pier 36, a venue on the East bank, sepia-toned hanging canvases and neo-classical doors framed Stuart Vevers “Generation Now” collection as he enters his 13th year in creative direction for the label. A four-way, dimly lit runway evoked the quiet shadows of a city still asleep, its buildings casting exaggerated silhouettes while waiting to be awakened by the people who bring them to life. The subdued setting offered little distraction as the collection came forth.
Why We Are (Re)Loving Them Right Now
Emerging as a sort of love letter to life, the collection acknowledged the ways in which today's youth are reinterpreting iconic pieces of the past. Enhancing the new by reinventing the old has proved successful within programs such as Coach (re)loved and many previous collections, making upcycling and repurposing a recent focus for the brand. Within the show, use of hip seventies subculture was found in far more than just its soundtrack. Creeping into the models’ haircuts, nostalgic of the famous seventies’ “shag”, as well as an array of aviators, butterfly frames, and “John Lennon” style round glasses, clothes captured the era in a more contemporary light. Having dabbled in patina leather and upcycled American denim last spring/summer, we were able to watch as Vever let similar textiles interpret a new season. Distressed denim, scuffed suede , and intentionally open hems suggest luxury should not avoid real life but represent it.
An enigmatic array of models relied not on familiar faces, but on the intrigue of anonymity, a reminder that recognition rarely defines allure. The most compelling passerby is forgettable because you know them, they are captivating because you never will. Looks ranged from tailored denim jackets paired with draping maxi skirts and oversized trousers (Looks 27, 28, 29) to sheer maxi-dresses whose cascading square, circle, and star shaped cutouts added a flair fit for Sunday out in Soho (Looks 9, 40, 45).
Coach Spring/Summer 2026, Looks 27, 28, 29 (Images courtesy of Coach)
Coach Spring/Summer 2026, Looks 38, 44, 45 (Images courtesy of Coach)
Elle Fanning, Charles Melton and Storm Reid were just a few of the distinguished faces sitting in the front row for the show. Amanda Stendberg (Actor and Musician), Benee (New Zealand Singer-Songwriter), and Tina Leung (Hong-Kong based stylist and fashion icon) were also in attendance, further solidifying the brand’s reach across different creative fields and parts of the world. Furthermore, notable attendees did not stop at the show's attendance as Vever had ensured a tastefully exclusive afterparty awaited them at Café Zaffri, just off Union Square.
Coach Continues Their Climb
Part of a decade-long effort to reposition as more vibrant and future-focused, “Generation Now” is a collection that speaks to relatability, not just reform. Many brands miss the mark when trying to connect with the younger generations by reducing them to one of two superficial stereotypes. Either portrayed as disinterested, disengaged, and “difficult to read” or reckless and overtly activist, designs become trapped under gaudy extremes and performative cliches. That said, Stuart Vever deserves applause as one of few who has recognized this conflict and created a new narrative, one that is both approachable and innovative. Whether wandering down fifth avenue or visiting your favorite Brooklyn bodega, the collection is ready to wear in the most literal sense. Coach did not just walk the line between sartorial and emotional but essentially drew it themselves.
Coach Spring/Summer 2026, Looks 12, 34, 35 (Images courtesy of Coach)
