Do You Dare Enter The House of Dior? Women's Spring/Summer 2026

By Nisha Kapitzki

Dior has been a pioneering luxury fashion house for decades. Founded in 1946 by French designer Christian Dior and releasing a debut collection titled “New Look” in the same year. This couturier's reputation has been at the top ever since. At a time of rations, uniform and structure, a post-World War II era. The “New Look” collection brought a fresh and hopeful attitude to the people of Paris and all who remained, restoring Paris into a fashion capital. By 1948, Dior and his partner Jacques Rouet established licensing agreements in the business of fashion. Deals for fur, stockings, and perfumes, generating revenue and making him a household name still to this day. 

Although a triumph in the fashion world, the Normandy-born designer only found his footing in the industry when opened his eponymous label. With a background in political science, his design career only began in 1935, when he started selling his sketches. After returning from the war, he was hired by designer Robert Piguet in 1938. He then served for the second time, in the south of France during World War II. After returning to Paris in 1941, he worked for Lucien Lelong and eventually started his own house (supported by textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac). Since his passing in 1957, the House of Dior has had an iconic list of visionaries leading the brand; Yves Saint Laurant, John Galliano, Raf Simons, Kim Jones and Maria Grazia Curie.

Next in line to lead the House of Dior is Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who is known best for his time atSpanish luxury fashion house Loewe. This two-time Designer of Year Award winner started his fashion journey as a student at London College of Fashion. He then began his career working at Prada’s marketing department, to then launch his eponymous label JW Anderson in 2008. He was appointed creative director at Loewe in 2013 and spent the next 11 years transforming the brand into an innovative and creative playground for leather goods, clothes, and accessories.

A 'New Look' For Dior, 79 Years Later

 With a star-studded guest list and cast, the energy was high with anticipation  moments before the show started. Jennifer Lawrence, Willow Smith, Greta Lee, and Anna Taylor-Joy were seen sitting front row amongst numerous other public-figures and celebrities with models Loli Bahlia and Mona Tougaard walking the runway. The show starts with a short film created by British documentary filmmaker, Adam Curtis. The words “DO YOU DARE TO ENTER THE HOUSE OF DIOR” are spread across the screen. The film then showed a compilation of different horror films since 1947 compiled with iconic moments of Dior. From Christian Dior himself fitting models, Marlene Dietrich to Princess Diana at the 1966 Met Ball. Raf Simons’ AW12 debut to Maria Grazia Chiara’s AW19 gold dollhouse dress. A bold reminder of what the prestigious house of Dior has accomplished, entering the house with appreciation and togetherness.

Jennifer Lawrence, Jisoo, Johnny Depp, Rosalía, Willow Smith attend the Dior Women's Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear runway show during Paris Fashion Week (Images courtesy of Dior)

The show starts with the first look, a lamp-shaped bell with two bows diagonal from each other. The fabric textures seem to be an in-between of crinkles and pleats, giving this dainty start a detailed touch (Look 1). Following this look, the collection includes garments incorporating sheer and floral patterns, pleats, low v-necklines, lots of bows and backwards coat inspired blouses. All similar to Anderson’s SS26 menswear collection with Dior, however with a touch more eccentricity. As the history buff Anderson is known to be, he investigates the tension between the push-and-pull between dressing up and dressing down, while paying homage to the previous designs and silhouettes of Dior.

The Whimsical Wonderful World of Womenswear

The collection has a wondrous allure to it. Perhaps a modern-day interpretation of a fairytale. However, not a princess story, but a whimsical and adventurous one. The high-neckline bows, jabot collars and accentuated tricornes lure this collection into what I would imagine the universe of Peter Pan and Alice in Wonderland would be (specifically the live-action films). The hats perhaps resonate with a whimsical pirate or sailor of sorts (Look 4). The capes worn by heroines such as Alice and Wendy (Look 39). These two protagonists seem to be a key feature in the collection, with dresses incorporating a blue and white color scheme, like the costumes worn by both characters. A range of short silhouettes, like Alice’s original costume to a longer and quirkier dress, creating an innovative approach (Looks 57, 59, 60, 15).

Dior Women's Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection: Looks 4, 39, 57, 59, 60, 15 (Images courtesy of Dior)

Another example, seen through the take of Wendy’s character, with dresses incorporating gracefully draping and a fanciful essence, taken from a night gown (Looks 33, 54, 71). Other characters that seem to have made their mark in this collection include Captain Hook (Look 28), the Lost Boys (Look 49), the White Queen (Looks 6, 22), the Cheshire Cat (Look 25), and Peter Pan (Look 62).

Dior Women's Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection: Looks 33, 54, 72, 28, 49, 6, 22, 25, 62 (Images courtesy of Dior)

Although a seemingly heavy influence by mythical and marvelous worlds, a touch of a modern reality appears every so often throughout the collection. Unlike Peter Pan, who never wants to grow up, Wendy does. In fact, she is excited to become an adult like her mother. With looks ranging from a relaxed silhouette to more fitted looks, with a touch of a corporate-boss attitude (Looks 17, 57, 73, 2), we see Anderson’s perspective of what today's woman is. A woman who can have it all. A dreamer in a world full of cynics.

Dior Women's Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection: Looks 17, 57, 73, 2 (Images courtesy of Dior)

With such a strong influence of these two fairytales, does perhaps Anderson resonate himself at Dior with these stories? Are they a prediction of how his time at Dior will proceed? As the reveal of Anderson’s womenswear debut at Dior ends, rewarding him a standing ovation. This New Look allowed Anderson to take two steps back and one step forward into the right direction, respecting the history and his predecessors while approaching Dior through his own lens. The anticipated intrepid storyline awaits, with his debut of Dior’s Haute Couture.