By Jesse Scott
There was a particular duality to the Ermanno Scervino woman of Autumn/Winter 2026. Effortlessly elegant, she is complex and the perfect amount of coy, forcing colleagues, friends, and lovers to slowly earn the many layers of personality hidden beneath her tailored knitwear or ethereal pashmina. She is a woman of contrasts. Rigidity and fluidity collide with yet complement each other in both her disposition and sartorial choices, eternally engaged, like yin and yang, in a balanced tango with no winner and no loser. Some nights see her stay up until the golden sun rises over her Sardinian villa. Others see her in bed by 9:00 PM, having conquered a day of obstacles perfectly coiffed as she builds her dream life. It’s all just a matter of timing… and her timing is always impeccable.
Scervino Through the Years
Scervino told the press after the show that this collection was in many ways an amalgamation of favorite silhouettes and fabrics from his house’s first quarter-century. There were complex layered looks and contrasts aplenty; for example, leopard print and Prince of Wales were featured in the same ensemble, with lingerie-style details, in Look 20. Scervino acknowledged: “It’s always a risk. It’s not like putting a classic gray suit on the catwalk.” But any tension seemed natural or even harmonious - reflecting the complexities of modern life and femininity. Look 28 saw an all denim-ensemble, seemingly forever in fashion, highlighted by an exaggerated furry collar (messy girl era is back) and python-style footwear. Look 31 featured a statement knit sweater with office-ready trousers made glam by a pair of glittering silver loafers ready for a night on the town. And Look 36, a personal favorite, paired the sensuality of the slip dress with the ferocity of over-the-elbow black leather gloves and the relative demureness of a netted face veil—the letter would recur throughout the collection.
Ermanno Scervino Autumn/Winter 2026: Looks 20, 28, 31, 36. Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino.
Fittingly given that the house is marking its 25th anniversary, the collection was also infused with a sense of nostalgia. Scervino described the collection as possessed with “an elegance that belongs to the homes of yesteryear, to perfumed drawers, to slow gestures.” In particular, he referenced the “textile mink on the cuffs of the astrakhan peacoat.” Scervino is a master of working with fur textures, and voluminous coats in Looks 46 and 49 stood out as highlights of the collection.
Ermanno Scervino Autumn/Winter 2026: Looks 46, 49. Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino.
Front row at Ermanno Scervino: Ginevra Ferro, Francesca Sofia Novello, and Cristina Marino, bringing effortless Italian glamour to Milan Fashion Week. Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino.
Anna Della Russo and Chiara Ferragni front row at Ermanno Scervino, where Milanese fashion authority meets modern Italian star power. Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino.
An exclusively A-List front row included iconic Italian figures such as Giorgia Todrani, Chiara Ferragni, Anna Della Russo, Valentina Ferragni, and Veronica Ferraro sitting side-by-side. One cannot understate Ermanno Scervino’s cultural import across the Milanese and Italian social scenes; from Courmayeur to Cortina, Portofino to Porto Cervo, he understands the rhythms of his homeland’s most elite destinations more than anyone else. These rhythms set a gold standard amongst the global luxury market. Thus, as his house enters its second quarter-century, Scervino’s international prominence should only continue to grow. As for his protagonists? Like the characters of the seminal film La Grande Bellezza, but without the regret*,* they will remain mysterious, complex, and seemingly both enchanted and bored by the ebbs and flows of la bella vita.