Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2026: Maximilian Davis Turns Up the Volume

By Filza Marri

At Milan Fashion Week, Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection under Maximilian Davis made one thing clear: the house is no longer content with playing it safe. Long associated with Italian minimalism and refined tailoring, Ferragamo this season leaned into contrasts; sheer fabrics, bold prints, and oversized proportions while still holding onto its heritage of elegance. Davis drew on the spirit of the Jazz Age, old Hollywood glamour, the 1920s. Drop-waist silhouette, updating it with a sharper, contemporary edge.

The opening looks established Davis’s vision immediately. Oversized jackets were cinched with silk belts that ended in long fringes, a direct nod to 1920s ease. Transparency then took center stage: a sheer nude blouse with ribbon-like detailing at the shoulder, paired with a bright yellow skirt and trailing fringe, gave (Look 21) a sense of playful provocation. The miniature orange bag popped like punctuation, proving that accessories could cut through the sheerness with bold precision. Sultry fluidity was balanced with sharp tailoring.

Look 29 set the stage for statement outerwear: a golden oversized trench, belted with silk and trimmed in floor-grazing fringe. The sheen recalled classic Hollywood glamour, while its exaggerated proportions hinted at Davis’s push toward a gender-fluid aesthetic.

Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2025: Looks 21, 29 (Images courtesy of Burberry)

Prints played a central role, carrying more weight than in past seasons. Animalier motifs- zebra, leopard, abstract blurs, appeared across chiffon and organza, sometimes layered with lace or silk. A standout was a sheer cut-pile silk dress, known in South Asian markets as “Barosha silk”, knotted at the waist and Paired with a furry clutch, Look 18 fused global texture with Italian refinement, and one of Davis’s most convincing experiments.

Ferragamo’s menswear was equally sharp. Look 49 disrupted the rigidity of a white button-down with navy cuffs, a pistachio green insert at the waist, and a deep red tie. Paired with classic trousers, it was a subtle rebellion, proof that Davis is willing to experiment within the framework of wardrobe essentials. Broad shoulders, longer jackets, and fluid tailoring integrating menswear seamlessly into the co-ed narrative.

Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 18, 49 (Images courtesy of Ferragamo)

For all its ambition, the collection was not without its stumbles. The heavy reliance on sheer layering sometimes tipped into overload, muting the brand’s reputation for precision. And while the prints felt bold, some risked veering too far from the brand’s historically minimal identity. Ferragamo thrives on clarity; too much noise risks blurring the message.

With Spring/Summer 2026, Davis proved he is not afraid to disrupt Ferragamo’s legacy of restraint. His embrace of transparency, fringe, and bold prints injected heat into the house’s DNA, though not every experiment landed. If the balance between clarity and expression sharpens, Ferragamo could emerge as one of Milan’s most exciting stages for modern elegance.

Sultry, daring, and sometimes excessive, Davis’s Ferragamo trades understatement for assertion, transforming Italian elegance into something louder, sharper, and modern.

Exclusive Behind-the-Scenes at Ferragamo's Spring/Summer 2026 runway presentaiton in Milan (Images courtesy of Ferragamo)