By Jesse Scott
Giorgio Armani, as is tradition, brought the curtain down on Milan Man’s Fashion Week on Monday, June 22. But while the occasion was grand, there was nothing ostentatious about the highly anticipated collection. Presented in the Palazzo Orsini on an understated runway, the show (which covered both the women’s cruise and men’s collection) alluded to a beautiful life, lived languidly. The setting was defined by the neutral tones which are code for refinement around the Mediterranean. Glancing around the room my mind wandered to the entrance of Jacques Garicia’s La Reserve Ramatuelle, the rugged landscapes winding through Sardegna into the romantic oasis, Cala di Volpe, or the interiors of the mythical Maçakizi. The collection’s protagonists would be at ease in any of these gold standard properties, emerging for breakfast in casually draped knitwear (Looks 33, 64), enjoying mid-afternoon lunches next to sun-soaked cabanas (Look 26), or attending a late dinner turned afterparty in a lightweight tweed suit worn shirtless (Look 44). Regardless of the occasion or property, it would simply be one stop on a summerlong Mediterranean tour, in which both hidden gems like Crete and more glamorous destinations like Ibiza are inevitable - and only a short yacht ride away.
Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2027, Looks 33, 64, 26, 44. Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
A who’s who of Milan Fashion Week turned out for one of its most exclusive shows. British actress Lucy Bolton looked stunning in a flowing grey dress that conversed with many of the pieces on the runway. Aron Piper, best known for his role in Elite, wore a grey tank/blazer combo paired with a particularly covetous pair of matching sunglasses. And Noah Mills struck a striking figure in a midnight blue ensemble. They bore witness to the continuation of a new Armani era; despite the devastating passing of its founder last September, the legendary house has not broken stride.
Lucy Bolton, Aron Piper, and Noah Mills attend the Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2027 show in Milan. Courtesy of Lucas Possiede / Giorgio Armani
Giorgio would doubtless have approved of this collection, which possessed a particular 80s mystique. Inspired by an imaginary Mediterranean landscape, the collection spoke to a rich cultural dialogue: entrancingly somewhat hazy. The structure of each garment seemed to change with each stride; this is a collection based on motion not form (Looks 24, 51).
Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2027, Looks 24, 51. Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
There’s something refreshing about this paradigm. Refined and restrained yet nonetheless built with the ease and comfort of the wearer in mind, it embraced a version of la dolce niente without the excess of la dolce vita. This new (old) vision of luxury hearkened back to an era before smartphones and the social-media fueled race to gratification through ostentation; think Sardegna or Greece in the 1980s. And it was the perfect way to close Milan Fashion Week, reminding us of the emphasis on sleek tailoring and effortless sophistication signature to the Armani house.