Giuseppe di Morabito Spring/Summer 2026: The Fall of Icarus & the Rise of Milano’s Hottest New Brand

By Jesse Scott

Giuseppe di Morabito soared close to the sun for Spring/Summer 2026, but without any of the unfortunate consequences that befell his collection’s namesake Icarus. Morabito’s much-anticipated show, symbolic of his recent ascendance in the fashion world, was equal parts scintillating spectacle and nuanced philosophical reflection on progression and rebirth. A harmonious symphony of diverse colors, fabrics, and silhouettes, all united by the same inspired vision which Morabito is unveiling over a series of seasons, the collection was both grounded in an ancient myth and distinctly futuristic. 

Performance Teases Collection’s Sweeping Vision

The Morabito show, presented in a grand Via Palermo space, opened with a performance. This was no surprise; Morabito’s inaugural Milan Fashion Week show, which took place in February, opened with a humanoid robot appearing on the runway reading Thomas Carlyle’s 1837 reflections on clothes and how we use them. This season, a large ring was suspended over the runway, within which a dancer was acrobatically elevated to the ceiling while the narrative of Icarus resonated throughout the room. Then a dramatic celebration of feathers, fringes, and general flare began, deftly incorporating gravitas, glamour, whimsy, and sensuality alike. Morabito found cohesion in contrast, for example pairing a structured jacket with elaborate pants entirely covered with feathers (Look 1). Broad shoulders on some pieces recalled the 1970s and the glory days of YSL, while fierce dresses covered in crystals and pearls spoke to the unapologetic 90’s glamour that has been sweeping its way through the fashion world.

Morabito was at his strongest when playing with these jewel-frosted looks, which paraded down the runway midway through the show in an ode to femininity that at times exuded a sophisticated unrestrained sexuality (Look 27). A personal favorite look was a revealing bejeweled corset with crystal fringes cascading down to the floor (Look 25). Paired with an equally dazzling headpiece, which also had cascading crystals and was one of the most covetous accessories to appear on a runway this season, it served as the crescendo of Icarus’s flight. For those who prefer something glamorous but a little more reserved, there was black pearl-encrusted blazer paired with a short fringed skirt (Look 45) and a floor length white coat proposed with intensely textured boots, an iridescent headscarf, and silver earrings (Look 28). The same boots were also paired unexpectedly with a structured Schiaparelli-esque corset and jean shorts covered in frayed lace, the most frequently recurring material for Morabito this season.  Partially sheer lace dresses oscillated playfully between innocence and sensuality, epitomizing the delightful dichotomy of the collection.

Giuseppe di Morabito Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 25, 27, 28, 45 (Images courtesy of Giuseppe di Morabito)

The electric red looks were showstoppers. A short lace dress, with frayed fringes extending down the model’s legs and what was essentially a lace balaclava partially obscuring her face, drew gasps of approval from the carefully curated guest list (Look 38).  Meanwhile, a brilliantly tailored sparkling red men’s suit recalled Michael Jackson’s Thriller (Look 36) and an elaborately trained dress was the season’s most red carpet-ready look (Look 33).

Giuseppe di Morabito Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 38, 36, 33 (Photos courtesy of Giuseppe di Morabito)

The collection flirted with couture. Towards the end of the show, we saw several outstanding editorial-perfect pieces that incorporated metal wings to explicitly reference Icarus (Looks 47-50). Morabito told guests that Icarus’s fall was “not one that destroys but that illuminates” and “looks towards a new horizon.” The show was a true triumph, conversing with both mythology and futurism while further illuminating Morabito’s vision for one of the most exciting brands in fashion right now.

Giuseppe di Morabito Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 47, 48, 49, 50 (images courtesy of Giuseppe di Morabito)