By Romi More
We barely had time to catch our breath between Milan and Paris Fashion Week before HODAKOVA swept the fashion crowd with excitement. On September 29th, Ellen Hodakova Larsson presented her Spring/Summer 2026 collection at the Portzamparc Wing of the Musée Bourdelle; a setting that perfectly echoed her sculptural, time-bending approach to design.
(Un) Conventional Designer
Larsson, graduated from the Swedish School of Textiles in 2019, has quickly become one of the most compelling voices in contemporary fashion. She launched her eponymous label in 2021, debuting at Stockholm Fashion Week with her first “Conventional Collection.” The concept was as ambitious then as it remains today: transforming discarded, high-quality materials into singular garments that question and subvert conventional design practices and encouraging out-of-the-box thinking. Since winning the LVMH Prize in 2024, HODAKOVA has solidified its place as one of the most innovative and forward-looking brands.
Assemblage of Archaeologies
The Spring-Summer 2026 collection again confirmed that in the HODAKOVA universe, the ordinary becomes extraordinary. Playful re-contextualization defined the collection: a book became a dress that “reads as it walks,” while a patchwork of Swedish mittens turned into a folkloric yet avant-garde gown (Looks 24, 39). Zippers were no longer closures but a “deconstruction of the conventional”, they were draped into capes or transformed into cascading strands evoking Mary Magdalene’s hair - an effect that also recalled chainmail, perfectly in step with fashion’s current “medieval-core” fascination (Looks 36, 37). Metal umbrella boning, salvaged and repurposed, served as a base of multiple looks, giving garments an uncanny yet elegant edge (Looks 4, 6, 8, 9). Look after look, Larsson proved her ability to surprise, presenting either a dress made of belts piled one atop another, or cubist-inspired garments created from straws (Looks 34, 44, 45).
The brand’s commitment to upcycling extended seamlessly into the accessories. Bags were ingeniously crafted from riding boots and embellished with zipper-flower appliqués, while the debut footwear line showcased Renaissance-inspired wooden heels. Developed entirely from overstock leather, the shoes, ranging from pumps to boots and monk shoes, demonstrated HODAKOVA’s ability to merge resourcefulness with sleek design.
Fashion as Safety
Ellen Hodakova Larsson has once remarked that trends play on our insecurities, therefore, while her work she seeks to offer safety. That instinct stems from childhood, when her mother created alternate lives for the objects around her - a gesture of imaginative care that Larsson now translates into fashion.