By Jesse Scott
In the serene setting of the 13th century Collège des Bernardins, IM Men guided guests on a nuanced and thought-provoking journey through the world of “formless forms.” Enveloping the space in a calming ambience that mirrored the soft silhouettes and luxurious textiles debuting on the runway, the team of Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi embraced the essence of “cloth” with quiet resolve and impeccable poise.
For these designers, who come from a diverse range of fashion backgrounds and push the envelope of innovation season after season, AW26/27 was an opportunity to subvert our understanding of the tangible versus the metaphorical. Form was presented as simply symbolic, with cloth not seen as the definitive means of personal expression but instead as a mere medium for conveying an essence of something “proper” several layers beneath.
IM Men AW26 Finale (Image courtesy of IM Men)
What do these formless forms look like for IM Men? As usual, the Maison danced a beguiling tango between the deceptively complex and simple. Unitary pieces of fabric billowed in unexpected silhouettes while fluid draping and subtle layering were used to masterful effect. The color palette was originally anchored in timeless blacks, whites, and grays in Looks 2 and 4 before effortlessly shifting to breathtakingly vivid blues, pinks, yellows, and purples later in the show. For example, Looks 32 and 35 were colour-blocked and gradient masterpieces respectively. Everything felt pristine; the Miyake ethos at its most fundamental level.
IM Men AW26: Looks 2, 4, 32, 35 (Images courtesy of IM Men)
There were moments of pure joy and surprise. For example, color-gradient coats with chunky scarves rendered in colors recalling the most radiant of Mediterranean days exude exuberance even on somber Scandinavian nights in the DAWN series, Looks 40, 42. From the accessories line, leather “To Go” bags whimsically reference take-out coffee cups.
IM Men AW26: Looks 40, 42 (Images courtesy of IM Men)
Ultimately, the collection will be most remembered for its outstanding technical precision, the synthesis of geometry and fluidity ,and exciting new production methods, like in Look 31 which is made with selvedge wool. Furthermore, the Gradation Wool series sees each roll of fabric individually poured with dye. It appeared most memorably on Look 9, a two-piece ensemble belted in a cummerbund-esque style that continues the unexpected resurgence of the cummerbund in recent months. The Kasuri series revives a traditional weaving technique that uses four types of yarn, one partially dyed in three distinct colors to create asymmetrically patterned garments. Finally, the Raft series offered a re-interpretation on padded down made from recycled polyester in Look 15.
IM Men AW26: Looks 15, 9, 31 (Images courtesy of IM Men)
In discussing the show, IM Men referenced the concept of “dawn and dusk,” the moments at the “seam of the day.” Transcendent, and comfortably existing within an abstract realm of the maison’s own making, the collection inspired introspection on both sartorial and philosophical planes in a way that only Miyake can.