Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Men FW26 Signals Men’s Fashion Renaissance

By Jesse Scott 

Jonathan Anderson’s second show for Dior Men's felt like the triumphant moment of a new era. The collection was, above all, balanced. Impeccable tailoring, synthesized with aristocratic touches, archival references, and just the right amount of flamboyance. This was clothing for the modern self-assured man whose aesthetic exists comfortably between timeless luxury, classic prep, and old-world opulence that flirts with ostentation but never quite crosses the line. It was also distinctly contemporary, as manifested in the tight almost-hourglass silhouettes of the swoon-worthy overcoats.

Details of Affluence & Old-World Aristocracy 

The show opened with two slinky sequined tops, in resplendent shades of purple and green respectively which referenced Anderson’s long history of drawing inspiration from regions like North Africa, the Middle East, and East Asia (Looks 1, 2). Anderson then moved onto the more structured forms that would be most prevalent throughout the collection. It was then that discerningly chosen old world aristocratic details emerged. Delicately pleated shawl collars, understated while reminiscent of the Victorian era, were highlights (Look 11).

Dior Men Fall/Winter 2026: Looks 1, 2, 11 (Images courtesy of Dior)

A major trend in women’s fashion the last few seasons, they are equally well-suited to masculine looks and Anderson deserves full marks for illustrating this on the industry’s biggest stage. He also introduced bedazzled shoulder epaulets, recalling the splendor of a decorated military coat but appearing unexpectedly on breezy polos (Look 8). The military references returned on a voluminous parka adorned with oversized tassels, and interestingly, worn shirtless, and on a sharp navy double-breasted coat with gold buttons (Looks 12, 19). Meanwhile, an altogether different type of formality was referenced on an elegant suit cut in a distinct inverted u-shape on the front but bearing tux-length tails in the back (Look 13).

Dior Men Fall/Winter 2026: Looks 8, 12, 19, 13 (Images courtesy of Dior)

The most spectacular looks were sleek monochrome overcoats with massive shearling cuffs suitable for a Romanov prince. Here Anderson demonstrated his mastery of balancing high drama with restraint, as the cuffs, somewhat revolutionary in men’s fashion, were allowed to fully seize the spotlight without competing influences (Looks 17, 24). Anderson showed the same deft touch when playing with resplendent patterns. A parka with three-dimensional baroque-style florals was paired with a classic white shirt/black pants combo and a cape-style skirt that would not look out of place as a Louis XIV carpet was worn with a simple herringbone blazer one side of the collar irreverently turned up.

Dior Men Fall/Winter 2026: Looks 17, 24 (Images courtesy of Dior)

Anderson Engages with Archives, Women’s Collections

Taking over such a prestigious Maison as Dior is no light obligation. Anderson, unquestionably the most prolific designer in the industry today, demonstrated both the depth and breadth of his fashion history awareness by diving into the Dior archives and bringing back looks that debuted over three-quarters of a century ago. A navy overcoat, this iteration with sumptuous black shearling cuffs, conversed with a piece from 1946 (Look 59). Meanwhile, a pair of long work-wear style shorts, one of several instances in which Anderson unexpectedly but adeptly conversed with workwear throughout the season, turned back the clock to 1947 but re-interpreted through a distinctly contemporary lens (Look 41).

Dior Men Fall/Winter 2026L Looks 59, 41 (Images courtesy of Dior)

The most exciting thing about the collection was not one particular look, nor how Anderson masterfully synthesized a diverse range of aesthetics into a cohesive and nuanced vision. Rather, it was how he brought the Dior Men and Women universes together, weaving this collection and his inaugural women’s collection into a singular narrative of elegance that marks a new era for the brand. From silhouettes to the smallest details, we saw consistent points of reference from Women’s Spring/Summer 2026. Meanwhile, amongst the accessories, distinctive shoe shapes and an achingly supple belt with a signature Dior crest, also present on this season’s bags, recurred in masculine versions.  

The show’s exclusive guest list, ranging from Lewis Hamilton to Robert Pattinson to Joe Alwyn, seemed delighted to watch Anderson’s unified Dior narrative fold. As both a critic and a client, I was equally thrilled. Dior Men is sure to play a starring role in my closet this coming season. More importantly, it is sure to play a critical role in shaping men’s fashion moving forward.