By Jesse Scott
We’re two weeks away from the Year of the Horse but for Cordoba native Juana Martin, it’s already begun. Inspired by her Andalusian home city’s rich tradition of horsemanship, and in partnership with groups like Malaga de Moda and the Association of the Purebred Menorcan Horse, Martin presented one of the best equestrian-inspired collections that this editor has ever seen. This was no simple nod to the romanticization of equine sports that has risen along with the quiet luxury trend: a pair of riding boots here, a harness-inspired piece of jewelry there, and a riding jacket for good measure. No, this was an uninhibited no-holds-barred celebration of the horse itself, one that required innovative construction techniques and impressive creativity, even for couture, to yield revolutionary new silhouettes. “Throughout history, the horse has been a companion in conquest, a witness to conflict, and a symbol of power,” Martin told guests. “In this collection, its anatomy and spirit are translated into sculptural volumes, lines that evoke dynamism, and noble materials that reinforce the idea of armor and skin."
Guests had a sense they would be in for a special show when they arrived at the Cité de l’Architecture & du patrimoine to see two uniformed riders on horseback. A front row including Flora Coquerel, Allegra Ream, and flamenco dancer Ruben Molina had just settled in their seats when Look 1 emerged: a simple black ensemble giving way to an elaborate train distinctly resembling a tail. Look 3, a bolero-style jacket with richly embroidered shoulder pads referencing saddles and long fringes recalling a horse’s mane, solidified the theme. Juana Martin always sartorially converses with her roots but this season, she immersed us in her richest Andalusian fantasy yet.
Juana Martin Spring 2026: Looks 1, 3 (Images courtesy of Juana Martin)
Homage to the Andalusian Horse
To understand the import of this show, one must first understand the history of Cordoba. According to ancient Roman writings over 2,000 years old, the greatest horses to compete in the Colosseum originated from the city, then the capital of Roman Hispania. In 1570, King Philip II of Spain founded the Royal Stables of Cordoba which are now considered to be the oldest surviving stables in the Western World. Under Philip II’s initiative, a selective breeding program gave rise to the purebred Andalusian horse that remains legendary to this day. Meanwhile, the stables were integral to the development of the greatest equestrian traditions around Europe. Vienna’s legendary Spanish Riding School was founded with horses from there, while Louis XIV modeled the stables at Versailles after the Cordoban design.
Today, horsemanship remains a massive source of pride for Andalusians and a centerpiece of local life. Cordoba’s Royal School of Equestrian Art, headquartered in a building designed by Casino de Monte-Carlo architect Charles Garnier, safeguards the local traditions. Now, Martin, under the spotlight of Haute Couture Week, has brought them to Paris’ fashion tastemakers. Describing the horse as, “an announcement of war, change, and journey, but also an emblem of triumph and victory,” Martin took us on an emotional journey that at once felt celebratory and stately.
Each ensemble was laden with layers of references. Sheaths hugged the body like saddles while bags were shaped like horse’s heads. Swoon worthy headpieces, such as in Look 6, resembled ornate ceremonial harnesses. One such bejeweled piece even framed the model’s face like a nose band and included an intricately patterned “bit.” The collection’s best dress, Look 20, was ingeniously constructed to look like an inverted ceremonial saddle made entirely of sumptuous horsehair.
Juana Martin Spring 2026: Looks 6, 20 (Images courtesy of Juana Martin)
Martin’s flamenco soul was omnipresent on silhouettes throughout the collection, for example in Looks 9 and 13, while elaborate jeweled earrings referenced the Moorish influence distinctive in Andalusian art and design. Yet ultimately, Juana Martin S/S 2026 was about the horse, and the equestrian lifestyle, in a way that no other couture collection has been. It was a revelation for former equestrians like myself… and an exotic fantasy for “it girls” who could fancy themselves horse girls for a night. The only thing missing? Spanish purebreds, wearing full formal regalia, in a dressage demonstration on the runway.
Juana Martin Spring 2026: Looks 9, 13 (Images courtesy of Juana Martin)