By Jesse Scott
The most-anticipated event on a packed A/W 26/27 Milan calendar, Demna’s first runway show for Gucci lived up to the sky-high expectations of an extremely exclusive guest list. Paris Hilton, Demi Moore, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Shawn Mendes, Donatella Versace, and Alia Bhatt were just a few of the names sitting in the front row as the Georgian designer officially opened a new era for the maison that he took by storm with an outstanding collection last fall. Also in attendance was Alessandro Michele, whose tenure as creative director from 2015 to 2022 still stands as one of the most successful - from any designer at any house - in my lifetime. Alessandro’s flamboyant colors, bold silhouettes and iconic accessories revived the unapologetic glamour and raw sex appeal in the brand’s DNA since Tom Ford was at the helm in the 1990s. Alessandro was likely pleased with what he saw on the catwalk Friday, as Demna took a no-holds-barred approach to designing a collection that put his definitive personal stamp on the Maison while simultaneously returning to some of its heritage codes.
Demi Moore, Brad Goreski, Alessandro Michele, Donatella Versace, Alia Bhatt, and EsDee Kid were among the many esteemed guests at Demna's debut runway show for Gucci, 'Primavera' AW26-27 (Images courtesy of Gucci)
Kate Moss Provides Milan Fashion Week’s Defining Moment
This Gucci show was inevitably going to feature a who’s who of the globe’s top supermodels, and, true to form, it was exceptionally well-cast. EmRata, Alex Consani, Karlie Kloss, and Vittoria Сeretti were among the biggest stars to grace the deadly black catwalk. However, all were surpassed by Kate Moss, who, some thirty-one years after she walked in Tom Ford’s debut for the brand, closed the show in a floor-length bedazzled black gown with an iconic G-string thong that immediately recalled Ford’s work from 1997. It was Moss’s first time in a Gucci show in 26 years. It was worth every second of the wait. Perhaps the greatest model to ever walk, Moss sauntered down the runway with the impeccable poise and piercing gaze that first made her a darling of the fashion world. Granted, the thong is a legendary piece, and the duality of sophistication and sex appeal that the entire ensemble provided was sure to draw headlines. But in the end, it is the way a model carries a piece that turns it from good to exceptional, and Moss provided a historic moment that none in attendance will soon forget.
Kate Moss closes Demna's debut runway collection for Gucci, AW26 (Image courtesy of Gucci)
Fun for the Modern Femme Fatale
Moss’s look exemplified the show as a whole. Demna engaged with the maison’s traditions while maintaining the rebellious and unapologetic vision that has defined him throughout his career. The collection seduced without subtlety. Sleek black leather contrasted glamorous white fur in Looks 45 and 46 and the occasional playful print, such as in Looks 64 and 77, recalled the flowers and birds of paradise that once danced across many of Michele’s designs. Cropped fur bandeaus, distinctly modern and finding the perfect balance between effortless elegance and ferocious sexuality, were introduced on Looks 52 and 54.
Gucci Autumn/Winter 2026: Looks 45, 46, 52, 54, 64, 67 (Images courtesy of Gucci)
Meanwhile, short sparkling dresses, such as the one worn by EmRata in Look 71, screamed that the golden era of 90s fashion and the Y2K party girls aesthetic are back in full force. This was a collection for Paris Hilton, Britney Spears, and Lindsay Lohan stumbling through the clubs of West Hollywood in those halcyon days when Page Six was the front page but smartphones did not…and thus, behind the safety of velvet ropes, stars could party in relative peace without being surrounded by the sea of mobile cameras and potential scandals that today cause me to avoid Keinemusik concerts like the plague.
Backstage with Demna's Gucci AW26 'Primavera' collection, featuring Gucci Beauty and Gen Z rapper, Fakemink (Images courtesy of Gucci)
While technically precise and well-tailored, the collection did not take itself too seriously. It was pure, unpretentious, and unadulterated fun for the modern femme fatale. Most importantly, it provided a beacon of optimism for the fashion industry as a whole. Times may change and creative directors may be shuffled every season. Nevertheless, Gucci will always be glamour epitomized. And this will always be Kate Moss’s world - we’re just living in it.