Text byAnna Carlson
No one does sexy quite likeKim Shui**. On Saturday, Shui unveiled herSpring 2025 Ready-to-Wearcollection inspired by Parisian streets andMatthew Barney's**SECONDARY exhibition, a terracotta sculpture gallery about the ancient Japanese art form Kintsugi (the process of repairing broken pottery with gold resin).
"The collection started with the idea of kintsugi," the designer explained. "It's more resilient, and I like the idea of it being this unity, that something comes out more beautiful than before." Styled by Lorenzo Posocco, Shui's models graced the runway in fragmented fabrics and innovative silhouettes, creating an ensemble of divine looks.
East Meets West Elements
Corsets and bottoms made of 'porcelain-like' blue and white prints materialized the Kintsugi; the Ming-era floral and gold patterns sprinkled throughout the collection celebrated the idea of renewed beauty, cohesively recalling previous lines.
Accessorizing with Appliqué
Electroplated floral decals, which appear on oriental ceramics, jumped off the garments, boundlessly exploring the balance of fragility and strength. Fitted tops and hot leather corsets juxtaposed with girlish ruffling or illustrative flowers visually achieve dynamism in Shui's work.
Sheer Sensuality
Playing on the traditional LBD, Shui's black evening dresses sported asymmetrical draping and lots of skin. While even the most scandalous pieces gathered at the inseams, Shui wasn't afraid to tease peeks of lingerie to add to the allure.
New in Menswear
Without any announcement, Shui debuted her break into menswear, notably modeled by Jake Flemming, no less. Flemming's second top of the night, a sequined halter tank paired with pink trousers and a chrome-colored flower necklace, left his chest bare. Other menswear styles complemented the women's, employing loose leather corsetry and revealing cut-outs. This exciting introduction furthered Shui as THE name for downtown chic.
Gold Symbolism
Olympic medalistJordan Chilesclosed the show by weaving together a story of transformation. The gymnast walked out in a bodysuit with a sheer fabric cape, which gave whimsical movement and drama with each step.