By Eva Répessé
In his second season at Lanvin, Peter Copping faced the house’s central question, how to respect its heritage while making it feel alive today. Jeanne Lanvin’s influence was clear, the love of sculptural silhouettes and the echoes of Art Deco. Copping reworked these codes with a sharper, more modern edge. The result was a collection that carried history and freshness. Copping framed it as a dialogue between Jeanne Lanvin’s vision and the needs of the present. It showed a house rooted in tradition but willing to evolve.
Art Deco
Jeanne Lanvin’s love for Art Deco was one of the major themes which inspired her choices in fashion design. This could be seen through her use of geometrical motifs, symmetrical shapes, shades of blue and gold, etc. Echoing her legacy, Peter Copping showed us. Symmetrical Diamond-shaped motifs that rippled through the whole collection, this landed the pieces a sharp, architectural-like structure (Looks 25, 30, 50). Headscarves which emerged as the collection’s visual refrain. They were impossible to ignore in washes of blue, black, and orange. Draped and tied with purpose, they transformed the silhouettes into something sculptural, while quietly nodding to the stylized headpieces of the 1920s (Looks 16, 32, 35). But the moment that truly anchored the show came with the return of Jeanne Lanvin’s emblematic “robe de style.” Reimagined with a softened waist and its signature ballooning skirt, it carried forward the drama and sculptural presence of the original. This time, though, rendered in lighter, more fluid fabrics, bridging heritage and modernity in a way that felt reverent (Looks 1, 54, 55, 58).
LANVIN Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 4, 8, 13 (Images courtesy of LANVIN)
A Lanvin Blue Set
As an extension of the Art Deco inspired design, the iconic signature color of the brand, “Lanvin Blue” appeared in a fresh, contemporary way on the runway. The set surrounded the audience with multiple shades of this striking blue. This simplicity in the background allowed the colors, details, and movement of the clothes to stand out while staying true to the spirit of the house.
As Paris' first luxury fashion house, LANVIN blue has long become a source of inspiration within the industry. Details and accessories in the Spring/Summer 2026 season extend the House's heritage into the present day (Images courtesy of LANVIN)
In the front row, we saw the French actress Leonie Dahan-Lamort in a sleeveless white dress with a high structured collar and fluid draping, not far from her was Zhang Yuqi, better known as Kitty Zhang, wearing a sophisticated deep navy trench-style coat cinched at the waist; perfectly suited to the house’s modern elegance.
Duality
This collection thrived on duality. Tradition and modernity in the same room; sharp and structured but also light and technical. The silhouettes were clean: cinched waist, structured shoulders bringing a keen sense of symmetry and imposing a form of authority (Look 13, 34, 42). Blue carried the show, shifting from shade to shade, with pops of new colors that maybe we are unfamiliar with in Lanvin’s world (Look 8). Ultimately, Peter Copping showed that Lanvin’s legacy is not something that needs to be preserved under glass, but something that can evolve, and breathe in the present.
LANVIN Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 16, 24, 35, 50, 55, 56, 57, 58 (Images courtesy of LANVIN)
