John Galliano presents Maison Margiela, Artisanal Men’s collection spring/summer 2019 in Paris. The debut collection from the ingenious Galliano _signifies an unrestricted foray onto the territory of haute couture for men in a conversation with a new masculinity in motion. _The artisanal collection could not come at a more relevant time, not only for its stunning creativity but also as a contribution to the art of fashion, as the men’s wardrobe – and fashion in general – becomes increasingly narrow and ready-to-wear driven. This collection is exclusively bespoke and will inform a men’s ready-to-wear line to be released as a co-ed spring/summer 2019 Défilé show in September. Coinciding with the show, American artist Tony Matelli was invited by Galliano to present four recent sculptures alongside the show. The full collection and artworks appear in the gallery below.
The inspiration behind the collection:
“Reflecting on the streetwear culture of the current menswear climate, John Galliano exercises his pyramidical approach to creation through an exploration of new values. It is an appreciation of the current evolution of male dress codes, and the desire to take it to unexplored places of craftsmanship for a young generation. The bias-cut – a technique native to the creative language of John Galliano – transforms traditional bespoke tailoring into a mercurial and hyper-modern take on suit-making. Executed in silks and tweeds, bias-cutting generates a harmonious exchange between fabric and body, expressed in a louche and liberating silhouette for an advancing male dress sense.
The intricacy, techniques and time inherent to haute couture are applied to traditional ideas of male dress in a transcendence of gender-specific uniforms. It is the experimental proposal of a reimagined sexuality, sensuality and individuality for a new mentality. Rooted in authenticity, garments informed by the wardrobes of formalwear and leisure pursuits undergo a process of repurposing. Original kimonos – some from the eighteenth century – are reconditioned into garments for the contemporary wardrobe. Corsetry, cape cuts in outerwear, and hand-embroidery in surface decoration nod at classic couture codes, whereas rubber and leather moulding reflect a less traditional approach to craftsmanship.
The Artisanal show is embedded in expert dressmaking and a new consideration of the tradition of haute couture. Drawing on terminology established in recent Artisanal proposals, notions of relaxed glamour, dressing in haste, appropriating the inappropriate, and dressing in reverse underpin the collection. House techniques such as anonymity of the lining, the memory of, and décortiqué, materialise throughout, honouring and honing the Artisanal identity of Maison Margiela.
‘Through the potential of Artisanal possibilities, conventional dress codes are broken down in a discovery of diverse individualities for a new age of self-expression.’ – Maison Margiela.
Coinciding with the house’s first ‘Artisanal’ Men’s show Friday morning in Paris, Maison Margiela will launch a new first of a kind fashion podcast series: ‘The Memory of… With John Galliano.’ The podcast tells a story usually only heard by select fashion insiders. It will take you on a journey to Creative Director Galliano’s Paris Atelier where he personally reveals the thinking behind his first ‘Artisanal’ Men’s show. He speaks to new definitions of masculinity and femininity, his introduction of bias cut to menswear and the sensuality it brings to a tailored suit, and the current regeneration of menswear with new top designers at luxury houses. ‘The Memory of… With John Galliano’ will be available on ITunes and Spotify. The second podcast in the series will be launched with the ‘Artisanal’ Women’s show in Paris on July 4th, 2018.”
Music for the podcast by Jeremy Healy.
KCD Digital conceived the podcast series for Maison Margiela.
Explore the full collection below. Images courtesy of KCD / Maison Margiela.
Double-breasted cape-cut jacket in tweed with a velvet top collar, worn over a nude chiffon top with embroidery and an off-white vinyl jean. Yellow gloves and decortiqué white patent leather Santiago boots.
Double-breasted iridescent nylon shirt worn under a plumed silk knit rib top, with a transparent technical organza jumpsuit trouser and a rubber pant. Shiny black high-top trainers.
Gold silk jacquard jacket worn with pink vinyl trousers and white decortiqué Santiago boots.
Double-breasted cape-cut Crombie coat with a velvet top collar, worn with wool techno shorts and a chiffon embroidered top. Recycled kimono trainers.
Check wool bias-cut suit worn under a plumed chiffon top, with gold high Santiago boots.
Décortiqué double-breasted trench coat with a cream nylon shell outer layer and beige nylon organza shell inner layer worn under a silk knit rib top, with a black rubber pant. A silk knit headscarf, black leather gloves, and patent leather high riding boots.
Creme mohair suit worn under a transparent black knit with a blue polo neck. Black leather gloves and blue high Santiago boots.
Black double-breasted cape-cut twill caban worn with wool canvas trouser and a box leather and satin corset. Black patent leather high-heel Tabi boots.
Nylon rib cropped tank top worn with midnight blue neoprene pants and black high-heel Tabi boots.
Satin frock waistcoat with hand-embroidered buttons worn with a nude silk rib top and nude transparent leather cargo trousers. High-top patent leather trainers.
Mohair canvas jacket worn a nude knit, black vinyl trousers and nude decortiqué Santiago boots.
Black floor-length double-breasted twill maxi coat worn with turquoise vinyl trousers and turquoise décortiqué Santiago boots.
Recycled kimono mac worn with turquoise vinyl trousers and a red patent leather belt. White décortiqué Santiago boots.
Transparent chiffon embroidered vest worn with a black recycled kimono corset and black high-waisted mohair trouser. Recycled kimono Santiago low boots.
Midnight blue double-breasted herringbone suit with satin lapels worn with a nude silk corset a black patent leather belt and black Santiago boots.
Recycled kimono jumpsuit worn with recycled kimono low-top trainers.
Double-breasted satin suit worn a corset, a patent belt and silver Santiago boots.
Anonymity of the lining white shower curtain nylon trench coat layered with a detachable printed shirt, worn under a silk corset with suede trims and a transparent black knit top. Black rubber pants, a silk printed headscarf and red patent leather high riding boots.
Black tweed jacket worn with black satin jumpsuit trousers, black leather gloves and black rubber low-top trainers.
Mohair cape-cut coat with recycled kimono lining worn with off-white vinyl trousers, a black technical belt and white decortiqué Santiago boots.
White double-breasted bias-cut satin suit worn with a pearl necklace, turquoise Santiago boots, and a turquoise vinyl Glam Slam bag.
Organza cape-cut pussy-bow detailed blouse worn with red vinyl trousers and black décortiqué patent leather Santiago boots lined in red.
Black leather trench coat worn under a recycled kimono shirt with a red rubberised belt, black vinyl trousers, black leather gloves and black décortiqué Santiago boots lined in red.
Black bias-cut full-length satin maxi coat worn with a cellophane nylon blouse and white rubber pants. Black thigh-high patent riding boot and red cut-off gloves.
Anonymity of the lining leather jacket worn over a silk quilted liner with the memory of biker detailing. Black vinyl trouser and black décortiqué Santiago boots.
Crin nude transparent jumpsuit transformed into a separate jacket and trouser, worn over a turquoise patent corset, black rubber pants with black rubber leggings, and a black low-top rubber trainer.
Judo jacket made from a recycled fully beaded dress worn with turquoise vinyl trousers, a pink vinyl belt, and white décortiqué Santiago boots.
Recycled kimono camp collar shirt worn with a faux fur leopard, silk and pink vinyl corset. Pink vinyl trousers and silver Santiago boots.
Recycled kimono camp collar shirt worn with dipped rubber waders.
Jade plume encased clear plastic coat worn with a cropped jersey print t-shirt, black rubber pants and dipped rubber waders.
Black crystal-embroidered silk jacquard jacket worn with a silk gazarre corset and wool canvas trousers. A plastic bonnet and crystal-embroidered trainers.
“Half Hera,” Tony Matelli
“Soldier,” Tony Matelli
“Diana,” Tony Matelli
“Bust,” Tony Matelli