Marine Serre challenges fashion conventions with thought-provoking FW25 "HEADS OR TAILS" collection at Paris Fashion Week
By Jenifer Nelly
Marine Serre once again proved her visionary approach to fashion with the unveiling of her Fall-Winter 2025collection, "HEADS OR TAILS," at Paris Fashion Week. Hosted at the historic Monnaie de Paris - the French mint - the show was a thought-provoking exploration of duality, value, and sustainability, reinforcing Serre's commitment to reshaping the fashion landscape.
Fashion as Currency: The Symbolism of "HEADS OR TAILS"
Serre embraced the concept of chance and duality, a theme woven throughout the collection. Guests were presented with a small red box containing a custom minted coin, engraved with Serre's signature crescent moon emblem and her own portrait - an artistic statement on identity, commerce, and the worth of fashion in today's world.
Backstage, Serre expressed her motivation behind choosing the Paris mint as her venue, emphasizing the challenges young designers face. "Today, it's really difficult, I think, for young designers to have a voice. It's just all about money," she shared.
From Tennis to Fashion: The Rise of Marine Serre
Marine Serre, originally from a small village in France, initially pursued a career in tennis before shifting her focus to fashion. She honed her craft at prestigious design houses, including_Alexander McQueen_,Maison Margiela,Dior, and_Balenciaga_, before establishing her own label. She launched her own label in 2017. That same year, she became the youngest recipient of the LVMH Prize, a defining moment that pushed her to international acclaim.
Since then, Serre has stayed fiercely independent, redefining the industry with her signature "eco-futurist" philosophy, centered on upcycling and sustainability.
The Collection: A Cinematic, Mysterious Edge
The collection's opening look established the mood - a sleek and iconic catsuit, a direct reference to Irma Vep, one of the first modern heroines of cinema history, as well as the female cat burglars from the hit French TV series "Cat's Eyes." Serre also incorporated references to David Lynch's_Twin Peaks_, infusing the collection with a cinematic, mysterious edge.
Structured black tailoring and leather took center stage, exuding strength and refinement. True to Serre's ethos, upcycled materials remained integral, with intricate pieces crafted from antique watches and coins, symbolizing a fusion of time, history, and transformation. This interplay of radical innovation and timeless elegance reaffirmed Serre's status as a designer unafraid to challenge convention while staying true to expert craftsmanship.
Marine Serre FW25: Looks 17, 39, 9 (photos courtesy of Marine Serre)
The show also introduced two new accessories: the MS CRUSH heels and the AURORA bag, adding another layer of desirability to the collection.
Fashion Beyond Profit: Serre's Creative Philosophy
Despite the industry's commercial pressures, Serre remains committed to authenticity. "I don't think about money when I create. Of course, I have to have two brains because I'm also the owner of the company. But I think it's important not to be driven by that in a creative position," she stated.
"I want to really make garments that people can keep for life, so at least if you spend your money, you don't throw it away."
Marine Serre FW25: Looks 43, 45, 46 (photos courtesy of Marine Serre)
With "HEADS OR TAILS," Marine Serre masterfully combined sustainability with storytelling, proving once again that she is one of the most thought-provoking designers of her generation. Her ability to balance artistic vision, cultural commentary, and ethical responsibility ensures that her influence in fashion will continue to grow.
Celebrity guests in attendance included: Bella Thorne, Kalash, Christina Kirkman, Mei Pang, Heyoon Jeong, Asake and Eva Apio.