By June Roberson
Celebrating their 59th year at 59, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Pierre Cardin goes where no man has gone before, not where every man has already been. The collection titled, "CINQUANTE-NEUF", meaning “59” in French, left no doubt what milestone the brand was celebrating as the designer's late nephew, Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin tops his 5th year as head of creative direction since his uncle’s passing. The show guided us through three planetary possibilities, each one exploring its own otherworldly ecosystem; a planet overheated, one utterly frozen, and a third deeply shaped by the sea. Paradoxically innovative yet retro, the collection made it feel like if there really are footprints on the moon, perhaps Pierre and his high-tech designs helped put them there.
Legends Never Die
Here on earth, however, one thing remains clear: Cardin’s cutting-edge collections are not the only place the brand has proved itself a visionary. From his 1959 expulsion from the Chambre Syndicale for breaking haute couture rules to pioneering ready-to-wear and licensing across countless industries, Pierre proves that very few are remembered for following the rules. After all, what truly is the difference between the visionary and the rebel?
Dressing the Jetsons?
Sleek and unembellished, technological genius remained the star of the opening 15 looks like soft shell bodysuits were both body-conscious and breathable. Seams were sealed rather than stitched, an effort to fully protect the wearer from climate extremes. Tinted visor-glasses functioned as face shields while providing subtle drama and energizing the primarily black and white palette with bursts of burnt orange, red, and cyan. Formed entirely from smart textiles, designed in-house as Cardin originals, the looks offered acclimatizing temperature control and spoke to a future where clothes transcend the seasons instead of style taking the blow.
Despite the unembellished openers, the remaining 55 looks were fully charged by the otherworldly. Hidden magnets allowed fans, capes, tunics, and other abstract attachments to change at a moment’s notice with just a snap, ideal for the busiest days of 2085. Business meeting? Attach a heliotrope tie to match your new winged thigh highs (Look 23). Drinks with coworkers? Off with the tie, on with an undulating teal front-piece that quickly transforms your black work suit into a high-low style dress (Look 64). Unconventional, yes, but able to float between an office party on Mars to a night out on Saturn’s rings without the fuss, landing somewhere between ship crew and fashion show.
Pierre Cardin Spring/Summer 2026 presented during Paris Fashion Week (Images courtesy of Pierre Cardin)
Pierre Cardin Spring/Summer 2026 presented during Paris Fashion Week (Images courtesy of Pierre Cardin)
As our planet drifts deeper into the unpredictable, scientists look to the possibility of life on other planets, and society remains unsure of what the future holds, perhaps Pierre Cardin is the only designer truly looking ahead. Not merely exploring new ways to dress on a planet in decline but preparing us for the possibility of a new world entirely. The future of fashion not determined by recycled trends or producing next seasons staples, but by innovation meant for a time even we may never even live to see. Approaching what Cardin imagines as earth’s final frontier, the house is not just preparing for the future but predicting it.