By Louise Daniel
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada have been engaged in an act of creative resilience for several seasons. Fall/Winter 2025 and Spring/Summer 2026 marked a return to the cultivation of raw creative instincts which seems, in part, lost to commercialism. As Prada described, she takes her job seriously by bringing creativity, culture, and, most importantly, understanding into her work. For Fall/Winter 2026, the Prada duo has reconciled the relationship between time and clothing through the act of remembrance. Bearing the title “Before and After,” the show serves as an antithesis to fashion’s hyper-fixation on novelty, an intellectual return of intentionality. Afterall, novelty thrives in a demanding environment. For Prada, it is not enough to produce the next season; it must carry a poignant response layered with deliberate choices that urge critical thinking and clarity. Slim silhouettes walk from another time with stained and elongated cuffs, scuffed collars exposing wear, hybrid-trench anoraks, and rumpled leather.
Beyond the clothes, the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada becomes a canvas to translate these ideas into tangible form. For Fall/Winter 2025, the space was given a deconstructed finish in towering scaffolding and carpets, originally designed by Catherine Martin. This season, the Deposito was transformed by OMA into an Italian home with fireplaces and wood panels, approaching the dystopic as “Theme for Thought” by Virgin Prunes played at the start of the show. While Miuccia Prada brings her deep understanding of culture to the runway, Raf Simons infused the collection with his signature mix of youth culture references.
“If you lick layers away, you reveal beauty,” described Simons. In this collection, meaning remains layered. Topcoats and bomber jackets (Looks 37, 38, 39) included scuffed edges, revealing a houndstooth textile as a second layer, like a painting hidden beneath a painting. Wrinkled apron-style tops (Look 36) and belted utility raincoats (Looks 33, 34, 35) lent looks a wrinkled-effect that felt undone. Flat Baker Boy hats hung on the back of coats, resembling pressed flowers. A defining feature of Fall/Winter 2026 is the heritage-tinged contrasting with Prada’s iconic sharp tailoring. Mid-19th century English silhouettes merged with the sentiment of the late 90s and given modern tailoring. A remembrance of the past for the sake of a more deliberate future, the Prada duo is aware of how their decisions echo throughout the industry. To remember is a sign of respect, as reflected in the show notes. A Prada show is not only concerned with clothing but also in its capacity to transport ideas.
Prada Men's Fall/Winter 2026: Looks 1, 5, 6, 10, 21, 28, 35, 37, 39, 43, 54 (Imagesy courtesy of Prada)
