By Jesse Scott
Rahul Mishra united earth, water, fire, air, and space for a dramatic Spring 2026 show centered on the idea that humans are an extension of the cosmos. Inspired by panchabhuta, the concept of these five elements as expressed in the canonical text the Rig Veda, Mishra curated a sweeping conceptual collection that continued to push the boundaries of form and structure in a way distinctly his own.
For Mishra, life and this collection are defined by cycles. In the show notes, he told the story of a seed “in the womb of the earth, suspended in nothingness of its own.” The seed, he explains, “feeds on minerals created precisely when the star was born,” and, “having been nourished on thousands of life cycles of plants, animals, microorganisms, fungi, and such” grows into a tree before “returning to nature, body to body, earth to earth.” Similarly, his show began at the eternal silence of the ether from which all possibilities begin, journeying through the lightness of air, the transformational force of fire, and the notion of water before concluding in the Earth as “the ledger of all memories.” A star-studded guest list including Chloe Lecareux, Mara Lafontan, Ginta Biku, and Alioune Badara sat front row, both entranced and entertained, as the narrative unfolded and time seemed to slow down.
From the Cosmos to the Earth, Mishra Goes Full Circle
The show opened in a typically riveting Mishra fashion: a model emerged in a dress resembling the Milky Way with a cylindrical structure encircling her upper body and extending well above her head in Look 1. Two looks later, a model wore a cape-like structure resembling the night sky in Look 3. The cosmic arc continued with an ensemble including a massive circular headpiece that recalled the universe after the “Big Bang” and forced us to suspend disbelief as to what it is possible to construct and gracefully wear in Look 7. In a highlight of the collection, it featured an appearance by longtime Mishra muse Coco Rocha in Look 8.
Rahul Mishra Spring 2026: Look 1, 3, 7, 8 (Images courtesy of Rahul Mishra)
The air-inspired looks began with a moment of continuity; the enormous circular headpiece returned but this time decorated with what appeared to be white clouds in Look 16. This was followed by a gravity-defying hoop skirt, a wing-like silhouette that recalled Daniel Roseberry’s recent work, and a dramatic blue and silver look that encased the model’s upper body like a lightning bolt or the wings of an eagle in Looks 17, 18, 20. The air quickly combusted into flames, as the collection’s “fire” series emerged in a series of imaginative shapes. Here, the restrained looks were the strongest: in Look 25, a floor-length dress with a simple silhouette and intricate beadwork, its color mottled as if being licked with orange and red flames, was one of my favorites of the season.
Rahul Mishra Spring 2026: Look 16, 17, 18, 20, 25 (Images courtesy of Rahul Mishra)
Mishra concluded the show on a note that was metaphorically grounded but sartorially fantastical - in the best way. While presenting Earth-inspired looks, he brought the collection full circle by referencing his opening ensemble and inviting Coco Rocha to join him for the final bow in Look 50. As the applause died down and we filed out of the Palais de Tokyo, we were left to contemplate our collective role in the universe. Mishra reminded us that, “each end is a beginning, like an endless thread, looped and knotted on the surface, again and again in quiet meditation.” In a Couture season of philosophical musings across the calendar, this may have been the most complex. It’s a thread we’d be happy to unravel with Mishra again and again.
Rahul Mishra takes a bow with Coco Rocha in Look 50 (Image courtesy of Rahul Mishra)