By The Fragrance Editorial Team
In the realm of high fashion, few destinations rival Paris and Milan for elegance and refinement. Where they dazzle with spectacle, Kyoto whispers—luxury in restraint. Few appreciate quiet aesthetics more than Canadian perfumer, Matthew Meleg. A self-taught artisan, Meleg is known for his love of culture and hand-crafted compositions that pair rare natural materials with meticulous storytelling. He collaborates directly with Kyoto’s Umeno Geisha House, creating fragrances that honor living tradition—most notably Oshiroi, inspired by the powdery grace of Maiko and Geisha. His work is preservation through scent: respectful, detail-driven, rooted in craft.
“I try to visit Kyoto as often as I can,” says Meleg. “She’s an amazing city. If you allow her to—if you remain open and sensitive—Kyoto will slow you down. She speaks with delicacy, drawing my attention to seasonality and impermanence. This city asks me to be more sensitive, to create better art, to make better perfumes. I think Kyoto has this effect on so many creative people—that’s why there are so many artisans here.”
Kyoto is renowned for its artisans. Traditional weavers loom Nishijin silk, potters shape Kyo-yaki ceramics, and confectioners craft delicate wagashi—each embodying a devotion to excellence. Like an haute couture atelier in Paris or a master leather shop in Milan, Kyo-mono (Kyoto-made goods) rest on diligence, noble materials, and deep respect for heritage. From this same reverence for craft comes Meleg’s collaboration with the Umeno Geisha House: Oshiroi. True to form, the fragrance captures Kyoto’s cultural soul and pays homage to Maiko and Geisha.
Matthew Meleg's olfactory creation, 'Oshiroi' captures the continuous tradition and identity of the Umeno Geisha House in Kyoto, Japan (Images courtesy of Matthew Meleg)
As bearers of classical arts, Maiko (apprentice Geisha) and Geisha are living embodiments of elegance—silken kimonos, exquisite custom hair ornaments, and white oshiroi makeup applied with ritual care. Their numbers are few, with Kyoto at the center of this heritage. For Meleg, Maiko and Geisha are more than performers; they are icons of style, grace, and preservation. Their kimonos rival couture; their ornaments approach fine jewelry; every gesture is refined art. Their path begins with years of rigorous training: dance—movements that tell stories with grace; music—shamisen, flutes, and drums; and song—technical mastery joined with feeling. Intelligent and captivating, they master wit, storytelling, and emotional intuition.
“I am very honored to collaborate with The Umeno House and hope to honor them by making them the best fragrances possible for the rest of my life,” says Meleg with humility.
Based in Kamishichiken—Kyoto’s oldest geisha district—Umeno House (“House of Plum Blossoms”) is led by Yuko Nakaji. Comprising both an okiya and an ochaya, the house oversees the training and schedules of its maiko and geiko, arranging instruction in classical dance, shamisen, tea ceremony, and etiquette. At the Umeno ochaya, guests gather over food and drink to enjoy intimate dance performances. The maiko and geiko of Kamishichiken uphold district traditions—from neighborhood festivals to the spring dances—sustaining the seasonal customs of greetings and gift-giving. They are careful stewards of heritage, ensuring Kyoto’s artistry is not only preserved but experienced. Meleg’s aim is to bring to life the world of Maiko and Geisha through scent. Collaborating closely with these extraordinary women, he seeks to translate their lives and surroundings into perfumes that tell their story and safeguard their legacy.
“My friendship with Yuko-san was a turning point in my development as an artist. Our first collaboration yields Oshiroi. This fragrance draws from the soft, powdery aura of oshiroi makeup. Oshiroi really is an expression of transformation,” says Meleg. “This is the story of our Maiko-san’s transformation from highly trained artist—dancer and storyteller—into a living, breathing work of art.” Meleg and Umeno are developing additional perfumes, as well: “Our young Maiko wants something cute and yummy, something youthful, perhaps peaches and vanilla. She has a sweet tooth, it’s very fitting.” Meleg and Yuko are also distilling the essence of priceless silk kimono infused with meditative kyara (agarwood) incense, moss gardens, bamboo forests and the shifting floral seasons.
A Broader Cultural Mission
In a globalized world where traditions risk being overlooked, Meleg and Umeno’s perfumes shine a light on Kyoto’s living heritage. By sharing the story of Maiko and Geisha, Meleg hopes to inspire appreciation and protection of the artistry that connects us to our past. “One of the most humbling moments came when I presented the final sketch of Oshiroi to Yuko-san,” Meleg recalls. “She inhaled, smiled, and said, ‘Yes—this is correct, this is who we are.'"
Limited to five-hundred bottles, the new fragrance 'Umeno' is available for purchase on melegperfumes.com. Sustainably made silk dresses and accessories from kimonos that adorned maiko from the Umeno Okiya are also available for purchase at kimonomaiko.com.