By Nisha Kapitzki
Dhruv Kapoor has come a long way since his first capsule collection, which was displayed in the year 2014 in Mumbai, India. Known for his elegant perspective on fusion and custom-made tailoring; Kapoor exhibits his Spring Summer 26 collection in Milan, Italy, titled Foundations & Futures.
The Realm of Sand Floors and Floral Motifs
To set the scene; the runway is covered in sand with benches placed in between and around. The likes of Saweetie and Anna Della Russo are sitting front row and center. A trance-like vibrational soundtrack created by Swiss Nepali artist Aïsha Devi is heard as the show begins. The collection starts off with a baby-pink petticoat covered in white floral embellishments, a black 40s-reminiscent blazer, alongside an enormous stack of pearl studs. The model walks barefoot with henna on her feet, and her hair is kept in a slick back low bun. Elements pointing towards the ground beneath us; our foundation.
The look directly after seems to be complimentary, following the same colors and patterns. Look 2, a black suit with an embroidery patch on one sleeve and a baby pink shirt underneath. The look was accessorized with a thin high waisted belt covered in small colorful beads. A timeless silhouette with a playful touch, referencing both the foundation and its future (Looks 1, 2).
Dhruv Kapoor Spring/Summer 2026: Looks 1, 2 (Images courtesy of Dhruv Kapoor)
Bead working, embroidery and embellishments play a significant role in the universe of Dhruv Kapoor. In this 40-look collection, many garments incorporate a floral pattern, which evidently was inspired by the nature of India’s fashion. Ranging from more modern adaptations of florals (Look 40) to patterns which resemble what is more typically seen on saris and kurtas (Look 26), such as the iconic paisley pattern.
Models wear earth-toned sandals or walk barefoot with their feet covered in henna. Their looks are accessorized with chunky earrings, whether pearl or jewels. Various mini clutch bags in shades of brown, blue, red, and silver are held or attached to their waist, with a minimal inclusion of large brown leather bags (Looks 7, 9, 39). The highlight of the accessories is the eccentric touch of sunglasses; a collaboration between Kapoor and Helsinki based eyewear brand Paloceras (Looks 13, 28).
Dhruv Kapoor Spring/Summer 2026:: Looks 9, 13, 26, 28, 38, 40 (Images courtesy of Dhruv Kapoor)
With the aim of breaking traditional gendered bias in garments, Kapoor creates pieces that resonate for all. Merging the foundational sensibilities of structure with the futuristic approach of styling. Each collection creates a unique energy felt within each piece. This collection’s energetic emulsion is taken from the planetary color cues expressed within Vedic literature (the Vedas). Shades and tones symbolizing various energies, such as Mangal (Mars), known for its dominant and fiery energy, is symbolized through the usage of a bold red. Shukra (Venus), harnessing a romantic sensibility is depicted through hues of white, pink, and light blue. Chandra (Moon), a tranquil and serene energy is represented through white, silver, and soft blues. Ketu, (a shadow planet - the South Node of the Moon, considered to be a significant celestial point in one's birth chart), is symbolized through the smoky colors and earth tones, sparking inner peace and introspection.
The depth behind the colors and the inclusion of historical artistic practices are all fundamentals; seamlessly blended with elements of the future; like the eclectic Finnish sunglasses and the mixture of feminine silhouettes to masculine garments. Exemplifying the intention of this collection and what makes Dhruv Kapoor.