By Jesse Scott
A primary theme of Tod’s Autumn/Winter 26/27 collection, I was told while walking through the brand’s elegantly appointed Milan showroom, was comfort. In uncertain times, it is natural sartorial instinct to seek soft fabrics, calming colors, and oversized silhouettes that cocoon the body in a warm embrace. Tod’s more than answered the call this season… and it’s safe to say that comfort has never looked so good! Fatally chic, and effortlessly so, the collection combined precise tailoring with exaggerated structures while allowing calfskin and the supplest of leathers to dance together in harmony. Cozy yet irreproachably elegant, with surprising pops of whimsy, it proposed a New Look that is sure to dominate the streets from New York to Milan next winter.
Details from Tod's Autumn/Winter 2026 opening looks (Images courtesy of Tod's)
Exquisitely Tailored Coats Meet Must-Have Accessories
The show opened with a dramatic topcoat boasting wide-collared lapels and anchored by a monogrammable high-waisted belt that stands as one of my singular favorite accessories of the season. The coat was tailored in a sleek hourglass shape which would recur throughout the collection as a symbol of ferocious femininity that seems simultaneously put-together and “too cool to care.” It was immediately followed by a surprisingly delicate Foulard leather dress with elegantly neutral color blocking and a print of snowy landscapes by Japanese photographer, Daido Moriyama. Moriyama, who first rose to prominence as a protégé of Shōmei Tōmatsu and a member of the revolutionary Provoke group, has had an illustrious career spanning over six decades and seeing him document everything from high fashion to underground kabuki theatre. His work was a natural fit for Tod’s; like the collection and the Maison, his work transcends eras and stereotypes with an effortless savoir faire.
Calf-hair-coated pieces stole the show, synthesizing timeless luxury with contemporary swagger for women on the move. My favorite ensemble was Look 31, a head-to-toe ode to fine fur from the oversized asymmetrical jacket to the pants and handbag. A close second was Look 28, a dreamy-to-the-touch caramel jacket designed to look worn and with intentionally too-short sleeves. Walking through the showroom, I was told that the coat symbolized the idea of outgrown yet beloved clothes that feel like home. Simultaneously exuding coziness and generational wealth, it was perhaps the best exemplar of the particular duality at the heart of the collection’s aesthetic. Other standout proposals included Look 33, a sleek white peacoat paired with another high-waisted belt, Look 39, a gracefully draped suit worn with a striking foulard, and Look 18 which brought curly shearling textures to a black and white coat.
Tod's Autumn/Winter 2026: Looks 18, 28, 31, 33, 39 (Images courtesy of Tod's)
Autumn/Winter 26/27 was a triumph for Matteo Tamburini. The Marche-born designer’s cohesive vision of effortless elegance during turbulent times brought both a breath of fresh air and a soothing sense of stability to Milan Fashion Week. Meanwhile, the star-studded guest list, including Chiara Ferragni, Chiara King, and Lily James, could not have seemed more pleased.