Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2026: Desire in Leather, Lace, and Lacquer

By Jesse Scott

Haider Ackermann’s debut collection for Tom Ford seemed a near-impossible act to follow. “He is nightlife, I am the morning after,” Ackermann said about Ford as he presented a bold celebration of sophisticated sexuality that signaled a new era for the American fashion house. The swaggering silhouettes and rockstar attitude recalled the golden era of the late 1990s and early 2000s — striking a perfect balance between unapologetic glamour and “too cool to care” chic. It reminded us of why we all originally fell in love with Tom Ford and anchored high expectations for Ackermann. The French designer delivered an even greater coup de grace in Spring/Summer 2026 against a sultry midnight-blue runway in the same intimate space in which his inaugural collection was unveiled. Here, Ackermann introduced a symphony of lace, leather, and lacquer, themed around desire — for those who exude magnetism and seduction everywhere they go. 

A Tale of Lace, Leather, and Lacquer 

The show began with some of its most striking looks: lacquer leather jackets in rich maroon, jet black, and lime green (Looks 1-3).  The jackets had sinuous comical collars providing both structure and sensuality. They were followed in short order by cropped suede jackets, one in a brilliant shade of purple (Look 14). Next came some of Ackermann’s most revolutionary looks: supple leather jackets paired with intricately detailed skirts and leather bralettes that were both rebellious and discerning. Equally impressive were unique sculptural silhouettes that were as much art and architecture as they were fashion.

TOM FORD Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection: Looks 1, 2, 3, 14 (Images courtesy of TOM FORD)

One vibrant orange dress rippled over the model’s body like the sinuous folds of the Winged Victory of Samothrace (Look 53). Innovation was achieved through reduction as one dress was completely backless, hanging over the model like a smock, while another featured a dramatic U-shaped cut-out (Look 56, 58). Finally, a semi-transparent dress with intricate lace detailing formed a deep V unexpectedly accentuated by a black scarf.

TOM FORD Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection: Looks 53, 56, 58 (Images courtesy of TOM FORD)

Ackermann might have the most carefully curated color palette in fashion right now. Dark tones remain the anchor of the brand; however, pops of pastel and even iridescent looks added bold personality. Pastel double-breasted suits were proposed with bralettes in a light mint green and peony pink. They stand as two of the most covetous and distinctive formal pieces from this fashion month. Meanwhile, bright blue pinstripe and polka dot double-breasted suits invoked authority, maturity, and individuality for self-assured wearers (Looks 30, 31). A regal navy robe with intricate detailing was worn open shirtless and with shorts to combine the casual with the aristocratic (Look 32), while a striking feature of the collection was the consistent use of cummerbunds in a natural and contemporary light. Typically considered a relic of the past to be occasionally brought out for black tie events, the cummerbund has been deftly revived by Ackermann as a versatile piece that can elegantly accessorize looks in many different silhouettes and colors.

TOM FORD Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection: Looks 30, 31, 32 (Images courtesy of TOM FORD)

Masterful Material Choice Proves Perfect for Summer

This fashion season has seen a plethora of brands embrace complex layering with heavy materials unorthodox for summer. Walking through the Ford collection, I was immediately delighted by how lightweight each of the diverse array of fabrics were. A sumptuous green velvet suit seemed trompe d’oeil felt delicate and breezy enough for the hottest of summer days. Even the most structured leather was thin and supple. Meanwhile, silk scarves draped over elegant blazers added extra touches of sophistication to looks equal parts pragmatic and bold.  

An Immersive Experience in an Intimate Setting

This season’s Ford show featured a particularly exclusive guest list. Kate Moss, Kylie Jenner, Pamela Anderson, Rita Ora, FKA Twigs, Vittoria Ceretti, were just a few of the famous names that sat front row. Together they witnessed an immersive spectacle that was carefully curated to ensure that all elements, from lighting to make-up to the cobalt blue color of the floor, were complementary.  Lucy Bridge did magnificent work with the make-up, choosing two striking types of lipstick and creating a glossy effect that reflected the shine on the floor, and the show, as always with Tom Ford, was brilliantly cast. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection emphasized, once again, that Tom Ford and Haider Ackermann are at the zenith of the Parisian fashion scene. We cannot wait to see how his glorious “morning after,” bathed in desire and a champagne sunrise, continues to unfold.