By: June Roberson
Vaquera
Monday Sept. 29th came in full force as one of fashion’s most manic days of the year. A slew of designers, editors, and models alike racing to attend the final shows of Milan before boarding a flight or catching a train to reach Paris before its debut. For those familiar with this quick turnaround, Vaquera’s position remains as a repeat opener of the week. After formative debuts spent in New York, relocation to the Paris schedule in 2022 not only established the brands American-ness but amplified it. YouTube-taught founder, Patric DiCaprio and co-designer Bryn Taubensee represent two American designers who have refused to compromise their DIY designs. Armed with a self-proclaimed fashion obsession, an impulsively bought sewing machine, and the Tumblr app, DiCaprio turned fashion fan fiction into a high-fashion phenomenon. The arbitrary inspirations that help his collections come to life transforms as unmistakably American ready-to-wear and serves more as a mirror than a mission to interpret each ensemble as it resonates.
The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly-ish
An invasion of uber-American fashion, with its polarizing and often unpopular approach to style, is bound to make a scene in a city famed for chic mystique and universal “good taste. “Unlike the characteristically casual American approach, the Parisian wardrobe is curated to a T. Chic and timeless as it carries the weight of its heritage. Simply put, no self-respecting Parisian would be caught dead sporting an athleisure set or pair of sweatpants unless committing deliberate social suicide.
Throughout the collection, snakeskin, faux fur, and acid washed denim were among the materials most featured and curiously combined. Beginning looks were easier to digest permanently popped collars, snakeskin coat-jacket combos, and belts that took three distinct size variations, all revealed within the first 5 look timespan. From there, it gradually got more chaotic. Look 7 laid host to an acid wash midi-denim skirt whose hip cutouts were formed by open zippers and exposed the base of a deconstructed blue pin stripe shirt tucked haphazardly beneath. A brown copper bomber added a final layer on top as alien glasses and hot pink pumps completed what could only be described as a trailer park princesses’ Sunday best.
Then came overtly large berets, acting as the cherry on top to a mix of other stereotypes and French cliches. Graphic dresses and skirts depicted the city in an unmistakably ultra-American form, inverted jeans showed back pockets formed as front, and slogan tees didn’t even try to fight their heritage from the U.S. of A. Feeling overwhelmed? Stay with me. The shows final stretch featured tapered pantaloons, suspenders whose sole duty appeared to be providing an ounce of modesty, and gowns that resembled an unmade bed shamefully transformed into a “morning after” look we have worn at least once.
Do You Make Your Bed Every Morning?
Clean space, clean mind. Messy space, messy mind. In this equation, Paris is the older sibling with her pristine room, while America represents a slightly reckless kid sister whose chaos is half the fun. The 38 look spread challenges what we define as “good” or “bad” when it comes to taste. The show notes suggest Vaquera's perfect girl is not concerned with categories but instead wants to be wrong at exactly the right time. She understands the rules but would not dream of being so predictable. No, she wants to catch your eye. Whether its admiration or disapproval, the point is you paid attention and like it or not, proved her unsaid point. Nobody cares about your run-of-the-mill originality and so what if the reaction is utter obsession or pure disgust? After all, all publicity is good publicity and, in her world at least, attention will always outrank approval.