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Anthony Vaccarello presents the Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 23 show in Paris.
Collection Notes
A sequel to preceding seasons, the latest Saint Laurent collection presents Anthony Vaccarello’s evolving vision in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection. Art and Saint Laurent have been complicit since the beginning, making Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s radical structure-within-a-structure a natural setting for tonight’s concise and intimate presentation. The gleaming concrete cylinder echoes the luminous circle at the center of the brand’s last menswear show; almost inadvertently, the O shape, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, becomes a recurring, pertinent thread at Saint Laurent.
Refined, exhaustively thought-out details characterize the ultra-focused presentation. A long, fluid silhouette is punctured with assertive shoulders and a narrow waist. A restrained palette – black, white, camel, navy, flashes of silver – reinforces a sense of bold sophistication. Each look is considered to be a fault.
Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 2023
An unexpectedly confident chiffon shirt and hooded knitwear tunics are paired with ground-skimming, sweatpants-inspired trousers that inject ease to the overall precision. Coats introduce a new, ample volume. Shape and length are reconsidered to produce exciting pieces that reinterpret established brand codes. Soft fabrics – including mohair, cashmere, satin, and velvet – contrast with hard-edged textures. Throughout, the point of view is strikingly unified.
The house’s signature dialogue between masculine and feminine continues with increasing fluidity: while borrowed male elements always inform Saint Laurent womenswear, here, a reciprocal influence is inescapable. It is evident in the masterful play of proportions and an idea of wrapping the body: further developing the hooded silhouettes of the most recent Saint Laurent women’s collection, a number of men’s looks for Winter 2023 extend up to cover the head with cagoules.
VIPs
CHRISTIAN COPPOLA ET TALIA RYDER
CONAN GRAY
JACOB BIEXENMAN
JOSH LANDAU ET NADIA LEE COHEN
JOSH LANDAU, NADIA LEE COHEN, JACOB BIEXENMAN ET CHRISTIAN COPPOLA
ANSON BOON
CHLOE CHERRY
GRACIE ABRAMS
HONEY DIJON
LIL DRE
THEODORE PELLERIN
JOSH LANDAU
NADIA LEE COHEN
PIERRE DE MAERE
RAYE
WILLIAM FRANKLYN-MILLER
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