New York-based brand ZANKOV revealed their Spring/Summer 2027 collection on September 14th, and with it, created a new retro guide to Spring/Summer fashion. As a label known for uniting craftsmanship and innovation, this show was no exception, delivering high-quality textiles with A1 creativity. Henry Zankov’s inspiration for this collection is based on Jeanne Moreau’s song “Le Tourbillon.” While in English this translates to “The Whirlwind,” in Zankov’s collection it translates into pieces inspired by the analog aesthetic of Soviet Russia met with 2027 futurism.
As far as retro fashion goes, Zankov determines a strong pattern always leads the way. From stripes to plaid, each pattern invokes timeless nostalgia on the runway, keeping us connected to 1960s boldness. Zankov also experiments with a pattern inspired by the work of Philippine de Richemont, a contemporary French artist whose work instinctively follows all of Zankov’s admired qualities: movement, curiosity, and color. Thus, in Look 9 and Look 19 from his collection, the use of this vibrant, spiral motif feels characteristic of the ZANKOV label and SS27 theme, a literal visual of Le Tourbillon.
ZANKOV’s Spring/Summer collection is centered around merging a passion for the past with a desire for the future, emphasizing the ideas of movement and fluidity. Therefore, this season’s use of fabrics such as chiffon, satin, and organza serves to represent and balance the relationship between these two time periods. Look 17 is particularly exemplary of this concept, whereby Zankov’s use of this shocking pink silk charmeuse transforms this slip into a piece full of life and movement. Especially with the pale green cut-out effect, which continues in the flared bottom layer, it creates an illusion of a dress emerging from beneath the pink slip, reinforcing this concept between the past and the future. Look 22 features a pinstriped chiffon dress and a lapis and silver necklace made by Heath Wagoner for Zankov. Its combination of lightweight, sheer chiffon with the kaftan silhouette creates a striking fluidity during the runway walk. As the red tights peek from underneath, the outfit connects a clear 1960s reference with an innovative sheer piece that awaits us in 2027.
ZANKOV’s showstoppers do not end there; instead, the entire collection showcases a variety of vibrant color palettes that are bound to inspire every mood board for Spring/Summer 2027. Keeping it to a vintage-inspired combination, Zankov pairs saturated pinks, greens, and yellows with muted, sultry greys, ivory, and burgundies. Essentially, the fusion of these colors forces striking contrasts that create a visual impact, while also reminiscing on the past and exciting us for the future. Look 7 and Look 14 maintain the season’s color identity through pairing these fluorescent greens with a moodier burgundy red. These colors are further incorporated into strong geometric structures that demand attention compared to neutral pieces, such as the shorts in Look 14, which incorporate more natural structure through the use of fringe.
ZANKOV SS27 has showcased staying true to the label’s vision for innovation by setting a reminder that the past and the future do not need to exist as separate references within the fashion world but can merge together. For ZANKOV, this merge has meant being playful with patterns and colors and understanding the ways in which a piece can maintain modernity but feel retro. It has represented a fluidity that Zankov has utilized as a powerful visual for the movement and choice of fabric throughout the collection. If there’s one lesson to take away from the ZANKOV SS27 show, it is that while we are looking at the future of fashion, we are actually connecting to the past. We are going analog this season.
